Natural VS. Lab-Grown: The Challenges of this Field

THE TRUTH OF THE MARKET

Post academia reality-check

It has now been a month since I've gotten my degree as a Diamond grader, and I am deeply surprised that in a field that technically should be over flooded by demand (Chinese labs produce on average 200 carats worth of lab-Diamonds per month) — I am finding myself being told by Diamond companies in Montreal that they are looking for setters, not evaluators.

It doesn't help that GIA won't be using the 4Cs grading system on lab-Diamonds as of October 1, 2025: they will identify at a minimum if it is CVD or HPHT grown, but they are reducing their grading precision to ''standard or premium quality'' lab-Diamond specifications. Each one sold with a GIA certificate will either be identified as standard quality (i.e that meet the minimum quality criteria) or premium quality (i.e that meet the highest quality for colour, such as D; VVS or better clarity, and excellent cut, polish and symmetry).

But what happens to all the lab-Diamonds in between?

In the case of a colour F (this is still quite icy white), VS1 and Excellent cut but Good polish and symmetry — will that lab-Diamond simply be tossed in the pile of “standard quality” on a GIA report? This may seem like an odd thing to be upset about, but in the eyes of a Diamond grader having an affinity with HPHT lab-grown Diamonds, this lack of information on GIA reports absolutely baffles me.

SYNTHETIC DOES NOT EQUAL SIMULANT

Why pick a synthetic?

The very first thing I learned in my Diamond schooling was the foundation of the misunderstanding that most people experience when they encounter lab-grown Diamonds: are they not real Diamonds? Chemically they are identical. They are just grown in synthetic conditions created in a specialized laboratory, hence the name ''synthetic Diamond'' applies.

Simulants on the other hand, is a term that refers to any colourless stone made to pass for a Diamond: Moissanite is the prime example.

To my trained eye, the two would clash right away as Moissanite has a higher dispersion value and an unnatural fire that Diamonds will never display.

A blue Boron-doped HPHT lab-grown Diamond under my microscope at the Montreal Institute of Gemology EGM, c. July 2025.

Getting back to my point, I've seen and studied rough HPHT Diamonds under the microscope and my marvel towards them is the cuboctahedron crystal shape (as seen above) they come out exhibiting, when they are extracted from their production machines: larger than life hydraulic presses that generate temperatures of over 1200 degrees Celsius and over 5-7 Gigapascal’s of pressure simultaneously.

By studying natural Diamonds, and only as of the 1950s were humans finally able to synthesize these conditions in a laboratory to recreate incredible specimens such as the largest rough High Pressure High Temperature Diamond on record, a 150.42 carat Boron-doped blue Type IIb Diamond produced by Meylor Global in 2022. If that doesn't completely take your breath away, I don't know what will.

Synthetic doesn't mean less impressive or fake!

It is ethical, sustainable, and a proud display of our civilization's intelligence and ingenuity to develop such technologically advanced systems that mimic Mother Nature.

These are just some examples of HPHT Diamonds (my 2.09 carat ring above and my 2 carat total earring pair below) — you wouldn't be able to tell them apart from a VVS natural Diamond (the only differentiating factor would be the fluorescence colour result and the lack of presence of indented naturals, knots or natural crystal inclusions that wouldn't be present in an HPHT Diamond.

WORKING IN DIAMONDS

The necessity of a self-start up

If you follow Diamonds, I'm sure you've seen the outrageous marketing tactic of DeBeers trying to advertise common brown, cream-champagne or yellowish-brown (and no, these are not the RARE Type Ib Canary Diamonds) as ''Ombré Desert Diamonds'' reminiscent of their African mining roots — placing them in a direct adversity position to lab-grown Diamonds: “they are a poor colour (according to GIA D-Z standards) because they are natural”.

Surely their lobbyist agenda in pushing natural Diamond sales are contributing to the ostracizing movement against lab-Diamonds. Anyone in the field of Diamond grading and evaluation will tell you as a fact, natural Diamonds that have a less desirable colour (below J-L) in comparison with the easy-achieved D-E-F colourlessness of lab-grown Diamonds, are cheaper and of less colour-quality as compared to the 4Cs GIA traditional grading scale.

Another post from Rapaport on LinkedIn (the pricing and news established entity of Diamonds), stipulates clearly that CIBJO, the World Jewellery Confederation, ''intends to revisit its 2010 decision to allow the terms ''laboratory-grown'' as alternatives for ''synthetic'', deeming it harmful to natural diamond sales''.

This is a blatant attempt at keeping consumers misinformed on the true nature of lab-Diamonds being just as real and more affordable and ethical than natural Diamonds, especially in this economy where spending over 10,000$ on a 1 carat natural Diamond would put any middle class person in noticeable debt and financial hardship. The unfortunate ignorance that consumers have, hence their confusion between synthetic and simulant, shouldn't be exacerbated by the companies and institutions that we are supposed to trust.

This in turn cuts evaluator jobs at the knees since it limits the amount of Diamonds ''worth'' evaluating (the mass amount of lab-grown Diamonds are now rendered unworthy of being graded with a full 4Cs report supposedly).

Most places I've looked into either don't require my degree to sell Diamonds (a complete shock to me) or are looking for Diamond setters: which is an entirely different set of skills! It seems like Diamond graders are required to open their own practice, if they choose to grade what's currently in popular and affordable true demand: lab-Diamonds. And then... since it's not a reputable lab or institution certification, people don't trust independent workers!

I believe in providing you all with full transparency as far as the Diamond market in Montreal, where I am based. Keep up with live updates about my Diamond journey on my Instagram @ lamrejuvenation.co ↓

or my frequent vlogs here.

To more passionate writings ahead,

Evelina Bujor

FAQs

Q: Which reputable grading laboratory still provides thorough evaluation reports for lab-grown Diamonds?

A: The IGI (International Gemological Institute) even specifies if lab-Diamonds (CVD or HPHT identified) have experienced post-growth treatment via HPHT or if they are as-grown (untreated).